There is something about tragedy that can bring a calmness to a place, I saw that at Auschwitz and I saw that at the Menin Gate. At 8pm I saw the Last Post Ceremony and that was quite something. There were several hundred people around me and on the other side of the Gate, I would assume, a similar number and they all appear to be British. The ceremony is about 1/2 an hour long and it is moving, I saw a few people leave in tears.
Afterwards we walked under the Gate and looked at the long list of names, the Commonwealth dead from Ypres. These are the names of the dead that were never recovered, 56,000 inscribed here and another 36,000 further up the road and that wasn't all of them.
I ran in the mornings, a mile from the hotel to the Gate and along the outside of the Ramparts and back in through the Lille Gate entrance, stopping the visit the small rampart cemetery just inside Ypres. I saw my first two unknown soldier graves and looking around the cemetery, every soldier was killed in 1915, all of these men most likely died in the same battle.
On Sunday it was grey and misty in the morning and that is when I found the Edmund Blunden poem etched in stone to one side of the Menin Gate. It amazes me everytime I read the works of any of the Great war poets, they know how to weave pictures and feelings into such deceptively simple poems.
Later that morning I visited the Passchendaele Museum, that was OK, it had some trenches to show what a clean and less waterlogged trench would look like.
It didn't cover the battles of Ypres/Passchendaele in any detail and that was a shame as the bravery, particularly on the part of the Canadians earned them the nickname of "Stormtroopers" from the German troops.
We did drive past "Gas Corner" and the huge stone megalith that has the top carved in the upper torso of a bowed Tommy, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Julien_Memorial, and I was told that the youngest soldier killed was buried a little way down a main road. He signed up at 14 and was killed at 15.
It was odd to see the graves in fields, a random sporadic scattering in one place and then one or two elsewhere and then another in a different field. There were fields of wheat growing with a cleared circle around a single grave. It was explained that this was a possible battle site or just simply the front. Many soldiers were buried where they fell and graves erected over them. The Belgium people have honoured them, not moving the final resting places and simply working around them, keeping the graves clear.
It is difficult to think that such a war only existed as a strip of battle across several Countries and 100's of miles. It didn't encompass the whole of France or Belgium, it was a strip of red blood across a map, a strip of mud, trenches, guns and gas that took a generation and robbed it of youth and light, leaving a World darkened and scared. After 1914, nothing would ever be the same, a war that used modern technology and old world practises.
The Menin Gate at night is beautiful, but it is all about the names, that long list of names of the Commonwealth troops that served and died, their bodies lost. As far away as it seems and 100 years is a long time, it felt so fresh. I saw people picking out their surnames, related or not and the ages, these young men hadn't lived a full life, they'd barely scratched the surface before death took them.
I found it all more startling and real than it should have been. Time hasn't dulled this and I am pleased for that. I was also pleased to see the large numbers of British people there, it is a testament to our collective memories that we don't abandon the young men of yesteryear, they deserve far more than we could ever give them.